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Lessons Learned Night Climbing the Kautz Ice Route
a review of our late-season, single-push climb of Mount Rainier: up the Kautz Ice Route and down the Disappointment-Cleaver On Sunday, July 27th, Ken and I set out from Paradise, Mt. Rainier, to attempt to climb the Kautz Ice Route up Mt. Rainier in an all-nighter, single push. We were…
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Reflections on Guiding under Icefall
How do we truly inform mountaineering students of the hazards of the mountain they’re trusting us to guide them through? As guides, we dedicate ourselves to leading people safely through challenging environments. We provide detailed briefings, review objective hazards, and meticulously plan routes. Yet, how do we truly convey the…
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Last Climb of the Season: Cloud Tower, Red Rocks
For our last Red Rock climb this spring before moving on to Moab, Ken and I chose Cloud Tower, a 7-pitch route located on the far north side of Rainbow Mountain. Despite the cumulative fatigue of the climbing season, we really wanted to get out for one last big day…
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Mt. Wilson via Inti Watana and Resolution Arete
A long day on Mt. Wilson: a climb to remember. Here’s a reflection on the beauty, the challenges, and hard-won lessons learned on the route, followed by some key route beta you need to tackle Inti Watana and Resolution Arete. Photos included!
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Donut-Powered Multi-Pitching
A progression of multi-pitch climbing in Red Rocks NCA outside Las Vegas, Nevada this month. Powered by Randy’s Donuts. I had the pleasure of teaching a return student in Red Rocks this month. She joined AAI (American Alpine Institute) for a week-long Women’s Alpinism 1 program in July. She reached…
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Terma: a 3-pitch climb in Moab, Utah
Last month I had the pleasure of climbing a route called Terma in Moab. It’s a 3 pitch moderate climb that tops out on the mesa looking out above the Colorado river. It’s a straightforward 3 rappels back down the route to the ground.
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